LOREMONSTER
The Dating Protocols

Read the label before you pay for the story.

Sourced label-and-tag intelligence for the great houses — the same protocols the Scout runs on every listing, published in the open. Two sources or it ships as rumor; where a tell is collector-lore, we say so instead of dressing it up as proof.

6 tells

Maison Martin Margiela

What do the circled numbers on a Margiela label mean — and what year is mine?

Read the protocol

7 tells

Alexander McQueen (the Lee era)

How do I tell Lee-era McQueen from Burton-era — and is the hair label real?

Read the protocol

7 tells

Helmut Lang (the personal period)

Is my Helmut Lang from the personal period (本人期) — or post-2005?

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7 tells

Raf Simons

Is my Raf original or Archive Redux — and which label era is it?

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7 tells

Hedi Slimane (Dior Homme · Saint Laurent · Celine)

How do I date Hedi-era Dior Homme — and is 'CELINE' without the accent his?

Read the protocol

6 tells

Yohji Yamamoto

What season is my Yohji — and is it mainline or Y's / Y-3?

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6 tells

Comme des Garçons (+ Junya Watanabe)

How do I read a CDG product code — and what does the AD year actually mean?

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6 tells

Ann Demeulemeester & Dries Van Noten

Is it 'Ann by Ann' / 'Dries at Dries' — or a successor-era piece?

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7 tells

womenswear sizes (cross-house)

What does an Italian 40 actually fit — and why does the same '38' mean two different bodies?

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6 tells

Marc Jacobs (Perry Ellis · Louis Vuitton · Heaven)

How do I date a Marc Jacobs–era Louis Vuitton — and is a 'grunge' piece real?

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7 tells

Rick Owens (the product-code watershed)

How do I date a Rick Owens piece — and does 'Olmar and Mirta' mean it's pre-2013?

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5 tells

Stüssy (the recycled-tag trap)

How do I date vintage Stüssy — and why doesn't the neck tag prove anything?

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5 tells

Supreme (the tag eras & the reps war)

How do I tell a real Supreme box logo from a rep — and what do the tag watermarks mean?

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5 tells

A Bathing Ape / BAPE (the NOWHERE.CO.LTD tell)

How do I tell vintage BAPE from post-2011 — and what does 'NOWHERE.CO.LTD' on the tag mean?

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4 tells

XLARGE (the two-market split)

Why are early XLARGE pieces mislabeled — and what's the OG Vermont Ave era?

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4 tells

fragment design (authenticate the partner)

How do you authenticate a fragment piece if fragment doesn't make anything?

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6 tells

Balenciaga (the Ghesquière era)

How do I date a Balenciaga moto bag — and is mine really from the Ghesquière era?

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6 tells

Gucci (the Tom Ford era)

How do I tell Tom Ford–era Gucci — and what does the black QR label mean?

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7 tells

Old Céline (the Philo era)

How do I tell Old Céline from Hedi-era CELINE — and what does the date code say?

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5 tells

Bottega Veneta (the Daniel Lee era)

Does the intrecciato weave date a Bottega — and is my Pouch from the Lee era?

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6 tells

Undercover (the tag eras)

What season is my Undercover — and is UNDERCOVERISM a diffusion line?

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7 tells

Number (N)ine (the name on the label)

Is my Number (N)ine actually Miyashita-era — and what are the reprints worth?

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7 tells

Vivienne Westwood (the provenance wars)

How do I authenticate punk-era Westwood — and why won't the label settle it?

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7 tells

Stone Island / C.P. Company (the badge & the art number)

How do I date Stone Island — and does the green-edge badge mean Osti?

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7 tells

Issey Miyake (the line galaxy)

How do I date Issey Miyake — and is 'founder era' even a hard boundary?

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7 tells

Kapital (provenance over tags)

How do I date Kapital — is there a label cipher at all?

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6 tells

Off-White (the Virgil era)

Is my Off-White real — and which tag era is it from?

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6 tells

Denim Tears

How do I tell a real Denim Tears cotton wreath from a fake?

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7 tells

Louis Vuitton (the date-code cipher)

What does my Louis Vuitton date code mean — and does it prove anything?

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6 tells

Prada (the Miuccia era)

Is my Prada vintage or a Re-Edition — and does 'made in Italy' even matter?

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5 tells

Miu Miu (the campaign-era map)

How do I date archival Miu Miu — and is the boom pricing real?

Read the protocol

5 tells

GOODENOUGH (the root label)

How do I authenticate vintage GOODENOUGH — and was there really a UK era?

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5 tells

NEIGHBORHOOD

How do I date NEIGHBORHOOD — and which Supreme collabs are real?

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5 tells

WTAPS (the season code)

What does the WTAPS care-tag code mean — and is my piece really from 1996?

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9 tells

Yves Saint Laurent (the Rive Gauche label)

Is my 'Saint Laurent Rive Gauche' piece actually from the Yves era — or Ford, Pilati, or Elbaz?

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9 tells

Gucci (the Michele era)

Is my Gucci from the Alessandro Michele era — and can the QR label or NFC tag authenticate it?

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12 tells

Hermès (the blind stamp)

What year is my Hermès blind stamp — and does the letter prove the bag is real?

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Or skip the homework

Drop any listing into the Scout — it runs every protocol on this page against the label, the tags, and the seller's story, and hands you the verdict.

Scout a piece

The Dispatch

One letter when the canon deepens. No noise.