LOREMONSTER
Legit Check

Legit Check

How to spot a fake, brand by brand — the real tells by era, with the red flags that give a rep away. Every signal cited. Use it before you pay; LOREMONSTER is an opinion engine, not an authentication service — always confirm in hand.

Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela's authentication heavily relies on its iconic blank white label, four corner stitches, and the numbered line system introduced in 1997. Due to high counterfeit volume, specific attention must be paid to the embossing of the tag, the numbering circles, and the era-specific care tags.

The tells

  • Blank white label held by four corner stitches1989–present

    Until 1997, the tag was completely bare. From 1997 onwards, it features numbers 0-23. The circled number indicates the line. Authentic tags have embossed text with a rubbery texture that reflects light, while fakes often have flat, matte, and messy printing.

    trussarchive.com
  • Date codes on care labels (Lines 10 & 14)2001–present

    For items from 2010-present, the year is a four-digit date followed by 1 (SS) or 2 (AW). Older releases (2001-2009) feature a COMM number where the last four digits indicate year and season (e.g., 0042 means 2004 AW).

    trussarchive.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Flat, non-reflective printing on the numbered tag
  • Incorrect font or oversized letters on the tag
  • Missing or incorrect COMM codes on pre-2010 items (except shoes/Miss Deanna)

Raf Simons

Raf Simons authentication requires deep knowledge of his era-specific tags, from the minimal sans-serif labels of the mid-90s to the abbreviated care labels of recent years. The brand is widely counterfeited, especially iconic collections like Virginia Creeper and Riot! Riot! Riot!

The tells

  • Minimal sans-serif neck tagAW1995–AW1998

    Features white embroidered lettering on a dark navy background. These labels do not feature the year and season.

    trussarchive.com
  • Full year and season in serif fontAW1998–AW2009

    Mainline neck tags featured the year and season in full in a serif font. This changed back to a paired-down design without year/season in 2010.

    trussarchive.com
  • Abbreviated year and season on care labelSS2014–present

    The care labels feature the year and season in an abbreviated form, located below the style code.

    trussarchive.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Incorrect font or missing year/season on 1998-2009 pieces
  • Raf Simons 1995 diffusion line pieces sold as mainline (distinguished by red lettering and '1995' in blue)
  • Archive Redux reissues missing 'Archive' under the brand name on the care tag

Community references

Helmut Lang

Authenticating Helmut Lang requires distinguishing between the original Lang-designed era (1986-2005) and the post-Prada/Link Theory era. Label colors often corresponded to the garment color, and the transition of ownership brought changes to the manufacturing tags.

The tells

  • Color-coordinated labelsPre-2005

    During the original era, labels often corresponded to the color palette of the garment (e.g., white on white for light shirts, black on black for dark shirts). Older jeans lines were white on black, but later merged to black on white.

    forums.thefashionspot.com
  • Factory and production tags1990s–2005

    Different eras had different factory tags. The Onward era used Gibo tags, while HL Jeans used GTR tags. The Italian cut is notably slimmer and more tapered.

    forums.thefashionspot.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Skinny vertical tags on vintage pieces (often indicates modern/cheaper production)
  • Incorrect factory tags for the claimed era (e.g., missing Gibo or GTR on older pieces)
  • Labels that do not match the garment's color palette (though exceptions exist)

Community references

Number (N)ine

Number (N)ine authentication heavily relies on distinguishing between Takahiro Miyashita's original tenure (1997-2009) and the later reprints by Kooks. The presence of Miyashita's name on the tag is the primary indicator of an original piece.

The tells

  • Takahiro Miyashita name on tagSS01–AW02

    Original pieces feature 'Number (N)ine Takahiro Miyashita' in the middle, with 'New York' top left and 'Tokyo' bottom right. White stitching on black background. Fakes often misspell it as 'Takahibo Miyashita'.

    reddit.com
  • Season codes on later tags2003–2009

    Tags used in the later Miyashita years feature a code above the cotton indicator denoting the season (e.g., SS08).

    reddit.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Tags reading 'Number (N)ine Studious', 'n(n) by Number (N)ine', or 'RE: Number(N)ine' (these are post-2009 reprints)
  • Misspelling of Takahiro Miyashita (e.g., 'Takahibo')
  • Absence of Miyashita's name on pieces claimed to be from 2003-2009

Community references

Undercover

Undercover authentication involves checking the evolution of Jun Takahashi's tags, from the early 'U' logo to the intricate seasonal tags. The brand's diverse sub-labels and collaborations require specific attention to font and fabric quality.

The tells

  • Era-specific seasonal tags1990s–present

    Undercover is known for changing its tag design almost every season. Authentication requires matching the specific tag design (font, logo, color) to the claimed season's known authentic examples.

    styleforum.net

Red flags — walk away

  • Generic or non-seasonal tags on pieces claimed to be from specific runway collections
  • Poor quality printing or incorrect fonts on the 'U' logo
  • Missing or incorrect wash tags, which are typically very detailed in authentic Japanese releases

Community references

Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons authentication is highly systematic, relying on specific date codes and production numbers printed on the care labels. The brand's numerous sub-labels (e.g., Homme Plus, Play, Shirt) each have distinct tag characteristics.

The tells

  • Production date codes on care labels1980s–present

    Authentic CDG pieces feature a specific alphanumeric code on the care label indicating the year and season of production. The format varies slightly by sub-label but is consistent within eras.

    trussarchive.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Missing or improperly formatted date codes on the care label
  • Incorrect font or spacing on the main brand tag
  • Poor quality embroidery on the CDG Shirt PLAY heart logo (often too round or lacking the correct eye shape)

Dior Homme

Authentication of Hedi Slimane-era Dior Homme (2001-2007) focuses on the iconic silver 'scar' on the tags, specific reference codes indicating the season, and the extremely slim, precise tailoring that defined the era.

The tells

  • Reference codes on care tags2001–2007

    Dior Homme pieces from the Hedi era have a reference code on the care tag that decodes the year, season, and item type. The format is typically 'Year + Season letter (e.g., E for Ete/Summer, H for Hiver/Winter) + Item code'.

    reddit.com
  • The Silver 'Scar'2001–2007

    The main neck tag features a distinctive silver metallic line (often called the 'scar') stitched horizontally across the top corners.

    reddit.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Missing or poorly stitched silver 'scar' on the neck tag
  • Reference codes that do not align with the known season formats
  • Proportions that are too wide or relaxed, contradicting Hedi's signature ultra-slim silhouette

Stone Island

Stone Island authentication is heavily focused on the iconic compass badge, the buttons, and the Certilogo system introduced in recent years. The brand's rich history of fabric innovation means vintage pieces require careful inspection of the green-edged badges and specific wash tags.

The tells

  • Compass Badge details1982–present

    Vintage pieces (pre-2000) feature green-edged badges. Modern badges have black edges. The compass star should be precise, and the buttonholes on the badge should be cleanly cut and reinforced.

    trussarchive.com
  • Certilogo and ART numbers1980s–present

    From SS 2014 onwards, pieces feature a Certilogo code for digital authentication. Pre-2014 pieces use ART numbers on the wash tag, which decode the year, season, brand (Stone Island vs. Shadow Project), and item type.

    legitique.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Badges with messy embroidery, incorrect colors, or unreinforced buttonholes
  • Buttons lacking the cross-stitching or the correct 'Stone Island' engraving
  • Invalid Certilogo codes or ART numbers that don't match the item type

Community references

Visvim

Visvim authentication requires examining the specific details of Hiroki Nakamura's craftsmanship. The brand is highly counterfeited, especially the Christo sandals and backpacks. Key tells involve the Vibram sole markings, hardware quality, and specific tag details.

The tells

  • Christo Sandal Vibram Sole Flaw2000s–present

    On authentic Christos, the registered trademark ® symbol is at the end of the word 'Vibram' on the left shoe. Fakes often place the ® symbol to the left of the Vibram logo on the right shoe.

    reddit.com
  • Christo Buckle Flaw2000s–present

    Real Christo buckles have a smooth curve with a flange perfectly sized for its seat. Fake buckles have a hard angle and misaligned flanges.

    reddit.com
  • Backpack label details2000s–present

    Fake backpacks often have labels where the octagon shape is too pointy and the font of the 'V' is incorrect.

    supertalk.superfuture.com

Red flags — walk away

  • ® symbol placed to the left of the Vibram logo on the right Christo sandal
  • Hard-angled buckles on Christo sandals
  • Uniform Vibram rubber soles on SS20 Shaman Folk Christos (should be partially leather with a Vibram heel)
  • Pointy octagons or incorrect fonts on backpack labels

Kapital

Kapital authentication focuses on the intricate details of their tags, hardware, and unique sizing system. The brand's Kountry line and popular items like the Ring Coat are frequently replicated, requiring close inspection of the English/Japanese text on tags.

The tells

  • Indigo Tag Spelling1990s–present

    Authentic pieces may sometimes have variations, but fake Ring Coats have been spotted where the English indigo tag misspells the brand as 'Capital' instead of 'Kapital', even if the Japanese side looks correct. (Note: The brand name originates from Kojima, the 'Capital' of denim, so early or specific items might have variations, but it is a flag to investigate further).

    reddit.com
  • Sizing System1990s–present

    Kapital uses both numeric sizing (0, 1, 2, 3, 4) and occasionally alpha sizing. Fakes often mess up the font or the specific look of the size tag.

    reddit.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Misspelling 'Capital' on modern tags where it should strictly be 'Kapital'
  • Incorrect fonts on the numeric size tags
  • Poor quality sashiko stitching on Century Denim pieces

A Bathing Ape

BAPE authentication is notoriously detailed, focusing heavily on the ape head sleeve tags, the golden ape head wash tag, and the specific shape of the WGM embroidery on Shark Hoodies.

The tells

  • Sleeve Tag Ape Head1990s–present

    The Ape head on the sleeve tag should have a specific shape, with the mouth and nose properly proportioned. Fakes often have a distorted face or incorrect stitching around the tag.

    legitcheck.app
  • Golden Ape Head Wash Tag2000s–present

    Authentic modern pieces feature a golden ape head on the wash tag that has a specific metallic sheen and texture. Fakes often look flat or use the wrong shade of gold.

    legitcheck.app

Red flags — walk away

  • Distorted or poorly stitched Ape head on the sleeve tag
  • Flat or incorrectly colored golden ape head on the wash tag
  • Messy or connected stitching on the WGM (World Gone Mad) patches on Shark Hoodies

Community references

Supreme

Supreme authentication relies on precise details of the box logo, the watermark on the neck tag, and the wash tags. The brand's massive popularity means fakes range from obvious to near-perfect 1:1 replicas.

The tells

  • Neck Tag Watermark2000s–present

    Authentic t-shirts have a faint 'SUPREME' watermark on the back of the neck tag. It should be visible under direct light but not overly bold. Fakes often make it too visible or use the wrong font.

    highsnobiety.com
  • Box Logo Embroidery1994–present

    On hoodies and crewnecks, the box logo embroidery should have a distinct cross-stitch pattern. The lettering should be crisp, with specific spacing (especially the 'p' and 'r').

    highsnobiety.com

Red flags — walk away

  • Overly visible or incorrect font on the neck tag watermark
  • Messy, connected, or non-cross-stitched embroidery on box logos
  • Wash tags with incorrect fonts or missing the correct RN number

Off-White

Off-White authentication focuses heavily on the MAIN LABEL neck tag, the zip tie, and the specific fonts used for the brand's signature quotation marks. Virgil Abloh's design language is highly specific, and fakes often fail on typography and spacing.

The tells

  • Green MAIN LABEL TagFW2016–present

    Post-FW16 pieces feature a green tag with embossed text that has a rubbery texture and reflects light. Fakes have flat, matte, and messy printing (e.g., the 'e' in 'between' is often blurry).

    legitcheck.app
  • Text Spacing and Fonts2013–present

    Authentic tags have even spacing between words and the ™ is correctly placed. Fakes often have weird spacing (e.g., 'whiteas' instead of 'white as') and overly thick quotation marks.

    legitcheck.app
  • Wash Tag Material2013–present

    Authentic wash tags feel silky, smooth, and slightly reflective like woven satin. Fakes are usually cheap plastic-like paper or rough shiny material.

    legitcheck.app

Red flags — walk away

  • Flat, non-embossed text on the green MAIN LABEL
  • Spacing errors like 'whiteas' or oversized letters on the neck tag
  • Black stitching used on early tags (authentic used white thread)
  • Zip tie attached randomly instead of through the specific loophole next to the neck tag

Community references

fragment design (Nike collabs)

Authenticating fragment design x Nike collaborations (like the Travis Scott AJ1 Low 'Sail') requires checking the size tag typography, the precision of the embossed logos, and the specific stitching details of the reverse Swoosh.

The tells

  • Size Tag Typography2021

    On the Travis Scott x Fragment AJ1 Low 'Sail', authentic size tags have thin, evenly printed inscriptions. Fakes have thicker, more solid letters and numbers.

    legitcheck.app
  • Reverse Swoosh Stitching2021

    Authentic pairs use thicker, tighter stitching that gives the Swoosh a clean, solid outline. Fake pairs usually have looser and thinner thread.

    legitcheck.app
  • Midsole Text2021

    Authentic midsole text is thick, evenly printed, and straight. Fakes use thin, crooked print, often noticeable on the number '8'.

    legitcheck.app

Red flags — walk away

  • Thick, bold text on the inner size tag
  • Loose or thin stitching on the reverse Swoosh
  • Overly deep embossing on the Wings and lightning bolt logos
  • Midsole text that is thin or crooked (especially the '8')

Community references

Stüssy

Stüssy authentication is a journey through its tag history. From the early 'Black' and 'White' tags of the 80s/90s to the modern silver tags, identifying the era of the tag and matching it to the garment's style is crucial.

The tells

  • Vintage Tag Eras1980s–1990s

    Early 80s featured the 'Black Tag', late 80s to early 90s used the 'White Tag' (often with a Shawn Stussy signature), and the late 90s saw the 'Silver Tag'. Authentic vintage tags have specific font weights and RN numbers.

    defunkd.com
  • Modern Tag Fonts2000s–present

    On modern pieces, the font on the wash tags and neck tags must be crisp. Fakes often struggle with the exact weight of the Stüssy signature logo.

    legitcheck.app

Red flags — walk away

  • Tags that do not match the claimed era of the garment (e.g., a 90s graphic on a modern silver tag)
  • Incorrect RN numbers on vintage tags
  • Sloppy or incorrect font weight on the main signature logo

Community references