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CanonAW2003 · 2003

Number (N)ine

Touch Me I'm Sick

Takahiro Miyashita

Why it matters

Named after the Mudhoney song, this collection channelled 1990s grunge with a Japanese precision that elevated flannel and distress into luxury: the Kurt Cobain-inspired striped knit sweater and the Crying Heart Patchwork Shoes are among the most coveted archive pieces in Japanese menswear. Miyashita's meticulous approach to distressing — every fray and patch considered — produced garments that read simultaneously as fan tribute and high craft. The collection is extensively documented on Grailed and archived by specialist dealers.

Defining looks

What collectors know

Number (N)ine is a low-floor, deep-canon cult — meaningful entry can start near $65, but the grail knits and the Crying Heart pieces from this era are what the community actually fights over. The single most important authentication move: the original tag carries 'Takahiro Miyashita' (fakes infamously misspell it 'Takahibo'), and the post-2009 Kooks reprints — 'RE: Number (N)ine', 'n(n)', 'Studious' — are a different, far more available animal that must never be confused with Miyashita's tenure. Provenance to the 1997–2009 run is the whole value.

The argument

Touch Me I'm Sick is canonised as the grunge-as-luxury statement, and it earns the Canon tier — but the contestable read is that Number (N)ine's apex is AW2006 'Noir', where Miyashita proved he could operate at Savile Row craft, not just fan tribute. Touch Me is the more beloved; Noir is the more accomplished. The cult's quiet civil war is exactly this: the emotional pieces versus the technical ones.

Sources