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CanonAW2000 · 2000

Maison Margiela

Artisanal — Italian Size 78

Martin Margiela

Why it matters

Margiela presented garments in an Italian size 78 — a size that fits nobody yet, with silk-paper fill, could be worn by anybody — making a silent argument that the human hand, not the body, defines couture. The newspaper-print shift dress and oversized tailored suit are held in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's permanent collection. The collection remains one of the most cited examples of fashion as conceptual art.

Defining looks

Provenance & holdings

Margiela Artisanal runs through the Met's permanent collection — the SS2009 wig coat (2016.231a,b) and the FW1998 vacuum-sealed 'Flatness' dress (2019.235) among them — and the 1989–2006 archive passed through Sotheby's Paris ('Martin Margiela: Hors Normes II', 2021).

Sources